Rhone Style Wines by David Girard
About
four years ago, our vineyard manager, Ron Mansfield, a winemaker from
another winery and I decided we would visit the Rhone grape-growing
area of France. That’s where—well, almost—the Rhone River, which
comes out of Lake Geneva in Switzerland, flows into the
Mediterranean. At that time, we were becoming interested in the
possibility of making Rhone style wines. “Rhone style” typically
means a lighter style red wine. Rhone style wines are lighter in
character from Bordeaux style wines, for example, where such grapes as
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc are grown.

In
France, each designated area such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and the Rhone,
is limited to the types of grapes they can grow. That is, each
area is permitted to grow only those grapes specified by law for that
area. In the Rhone, fifteen grape varietals are permitted.
The Rhone reds include Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. The whites
include Viognier, Grenache Blanc, and Roussanne. On our vineyard,
we grow nine Rhone varietals.
The first thing I
learned on our trip was some of the names of cities in the Rhone:
Avignon, Vacqueyras, Orange, and Gigondas. I learned there is
both a Northern and Southern Rhone area. Each makes a different
style of wine. In the Southern appellation or area, is the famous
Châteauneuf du Pape region. Châteauneuf du Pape takes in a number
of cities and is so named because that is where Pope John XXII built
his summer residence (to escape the heat and bustle of Avignon) in the
small village of Châteauneuf. In 1309, Pope John XXII’s predecessor,
Pope Clément had moved one branch of the Papacy from the Vatican to
Avignon where it remained until 1378. This period was known as the
Great Schism. It was sort of like former Governor Gray Davis
setting up in Reno because he couldn’t accept that he’d been recalled
and Arnold was put in charge in Sacramento.
So,
what are some of the characteristics of Rhone style wines? As I
mentioned, they tend to be a lighter style. They also tend to be
blended. That is, more than one varietal is in the bottle.
We make a Viognier-Roussanne blend for example. We’ll leave the
benefits of blending for another day. But briefly, blending can
provide balance, structure, and interest to wines. As in food,
one ingredient may be excellent. One ingredient also may be
boring. Think tomatoes. Think zucchini. Think
eggplant. Think garlic. Think ratatouille. Perhaps
ratatouille is not a great example, but I hope you get the idea.
By the way most wines, even those denominated as varietals such as
“Cabernet Sauvignon,” “Syrah,” and “Merlot”—usually are a bit of a
blend.
Ultimately, our trip focused on the
question: “How do the Rhones taste?” Based on our
non-technical analysis, we felt Rhone wines were better than we
thought. They were even better than we recalled through previous
experience.
We believe that Rhone style wines are
wonderful wines. As we go forward, we believe that we will make
ourselves and our valued clients very happy if we continue to succeed
in making quality wines in the Rhone style.